Princess Cut Diamond Buying Guide
Shape
Princess is a brilliant cut, usually square in shape, with the number of facets ranging from 50 to 144. The optimal number of facets is 58. Although it is mostly square, the princess can also be tapered or rectangular. It is the one of the best fancy cuts at exhibiting brilliance and fire. Allong with the radiant, princess usually shows the most light play out of all square shapes.
Cut
Princess diamonds are not graded in terms of cut quality, since this is a usual practice for all fancy shapes. Thus, paying attention to the proportions and symmetry of the gemstone itself becomes even more necessary. The sides of the diamond should be even and the facets should be symmetrical in order to get a gorgeous appearance and intense light play. Any number of excessive or missing facets may interfere with the light reflecting process. In an excellently cut diamond, its left and right halves are the exact match and the facet points all come together. The perfect ratio for a princess cut is 1.00, but it is incredibly hard to come across such gemstones. Still, the best solution is to look for a diamond with the ratio that is as close to this ratio as possible.
Princess Cut Diamond Table
| Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor | |
| Table % | 67 - 72 | 59 - 66 | 56 - 58 | 53 - 55 | < 53 |
| Depth % | 64 - 75 | 64 - 75 | 58 - 63.9 | 56 - 57.9 | < 56 |
| Girdle | Very Thin to Slightly Thick | Very Thin to Thick | Very Thin to Very Thick | Ex. Thin to Ex. Thick | |
| Culet | None | Very Small | Small | Medium | > Medium |
| L/W Ratio | 1.00 - 1.03 | 1.00 - 1.03 | 1.04 - 1.05 | 1.06 - 1.08 | > 1.08 |
The ideal table percentage for a princess cut diamond falls between 67% and 72%. Diamonds with table percentages within this range typically exhibit excellent brilliance and fire.
Depth percentage is another essential factor in the princess cut diamond's appearance. The ideal depth percentage range is between 64% and 75%. Diamonds with depth percentages outside this range may suffer from reduced brilliance and fire.
When selecting a princess cut diamond, it is essential to consider these proportions and ratios in conjunction with the diamond's carat weight, color, and clarity.
Clarity
Since the princess is a brilliant cut, it has an ability to hide some imperfections which are placed closer to the edges. The usual principle with the brilliant cuts is the smaller the gemstone is, the less visible the impurities are. If the diamond is not as big (below 1ct) and does not have any inclusions that are either too large or located at the table, the clarity grade won't matter that much. Picking a diamond with an SI2 clarity grade might be the best practice for someone looking for an affordable option. If the gemstone is bigger, sticking to SI1-VS2 is the better choice. Going for VVS clarity grade or higher is recommended with the diamonds above 2ct.
Color
Upon choosing a princess cut, the same rule applies for color grade as the one used for clarity. Color imperfections are more visible in bigger gemstones, just like in round shape. Picking a color as low as I might be a good choice for saving money, if a gemstone is below 1ct. However, looking for a higher color grade in a bigger diamond is recommended to avoid yellowish tints. It's better to go with a colorless group (D, E, F) if a diamond weights 2ct or more.